Diving In: Maldive Adventure, Part 5 (Conclusion)

The "speedboats" that serve as taxis ferrying customers from and to the airport on Malé  

In the photo above you can see the small speedboats that serve to ferry everyone from the airport on Malé island in the North Malé Atoll to the island resorts in both the North and South Malé Atolls. For those in the North Atoll, it is a piece of cake, because the boat never has to leave the protection of the atoll. But for those outside of the main atoll, especially those in the South Atoll, things can sometimes be a bit exciting.

On our arrival, we had easily found our boat, but the boatman dropped my bag of water and snacks into the sea, so good-bye to munching on board and staying hydrated, but the trip was uneventful. Even when sailing in the open waters of the Indian Ocean, the sailing was smooth, It was a nice, almost cloudless day, warm and sunny, with a light breeze, and it was very comfortable. No one got seasick and, even though it took quite a long time to reach Biyaadhoo (maybe 2½ to 3 hours?), we all arrived in good spirits and easily walked down the pier shown above to the resort to check-in. 

But the return trip to the airport was not like that—not like that at all.

It was a nice warm, sunny day, not a cloud in the sky. We had checked out, and together with the I's, the U's, Ms. S, and most everyone else on our island, we all boarded the speedboat that would take us back to the airport at Malé. Our bags had all put placed on board ahead of time. So, saying and waving our good-byes to those staying behind and to the staff, we made ourselves comfortable and our boat took off, heading north. While it was still within the protection of the South Malé Atoll, all was well. M was feeling so good that he climbed up onto the roof of the speedboat and sat up there, getting some sun and wind.

He had been up there for some time when all of a sudden the waves got so bad that they looked like those in this picture of a Newfoundland crab trawler. The sky above was still sunny, but suddenly the waves were like the kind you see in disaster movies or in cartoons. One moment our little boat was crashing through the crest of a massive wave; the next, plunging bow-first into a yawning trough. And all the while M was on the roof above the bridge. Fortunately, he had seen the rough seas coming, and had had the foresight spread out his hands and feet so they were touching the lifeline, and he grabbed on with his hands for dear life. Sometimes the tops of the waves were above him! He was terrified. (So much so that I have been unable to convince him to visit the Maldives again!) I know it sounds funny now, but at the time, I seriously thought that M might get thrown off into sea—and if that had happened, he might never have been found!

The boat was tossed like a little toy on the rough waves, bobbing up and down, for more than 4 hours!!! It seems that there was a severe tropical storm not far from where we were, and that is what was causing the mountainous waves! The seas were so rough that, except for the crew, every person but two on the boat got very seasick. One was the husband (Mr. X) of a Japanese couple, and his wife (angry because he was OK) said, "He's too bloody dense to get sick!" I was doing OK, but that is because I was standing in a doorway looking out at the horizon and loudly singing operatic arias to keep my mind occupied and to keep me from worrying myself sick about M, because there was absolutely nothing to be done until it was safe for him to come down. Finally, we came close to mooring at Malé, but the waves were still so huge that we could not dock and had to stay in the bay. That did it—the up-and-down motion continued, but now there was an added lateral rocking that was so bad that one of the crew got thrown overboard aft. At first I thought it was M, and my heart sank, but it was a crewman whose fellows pulled right back into the boat quickly. The bobbing, plus the rocking, plus the now overpowering gasoline and oil fumes were too much—I finally heaved and heaved and heaved until I could heave no more. Yet Mr. X was still cool as a cucumber and now the only one to be unaffected—the lucky bugger!

Eventually, the waves lessened and we were able to dock, but M was not coming down. I had to send one of the crew up to see if he was still there, and the man had to pry M's fingers from the lifelines, which had certainly lived up to their name that day! He had been holding on for dear life for so long that he could not release his grip. The crewman helped him down, and as soon as he reached the dock and stepped onto dry land he collapsed and couldn't move. I asked him if he was OK and he said, "No! I have sunstroke and I'm dehydrated, Get me something to drink, fast.  I feel like I'm going to die!" Though I thought he was exaggerating, I went over to the terminal, but it was closed, and they would not let me in to get him a drink of water. When I went back and told him, he shouted, "You stupid fool! I need some liquid or I'm going to pass out!" Young Mr. U overheard him and ran over to the terminal,  and perhaps because he was speaking in Japanese, he managed to get in and came running back with two bottles of Coke.  Between the liquid and the sugar, Coke basically saved his life. (And it is still his drink of preference, but now he drinks the Zero version!) He revived and came around rather quickly, though he was weak. We eventually made it into the terminal, got on the plane, and started our trek home. So this time the route was to be Malé – Colombo – Bangkok – Tokyo, and again it would take close to 24 hours.

Japanese actor NT and his dive instructor, Mr. S, were with us on our flight once more, and, as it was more than half empty, we were all able to push down the backs of the seats in front of us and rest our legs up on them. It was the closest we could come to full reclining back in those days! I made arrangements to meet Mr. S in Tokyo and take the C card course with him (which I did, with JP, Japan Professional, which is associated with CMAS, from whom I now hold a 2-Star, or Advanced-Rescue level, card), and I've been diving ever since.

I should add that at one point during the flight, M, who had gained back his appetite and was feeling much better, got up to use the toilet, but he came back as white as a ghost. I asked what was wrong, and he said, "If you go use the toilet, you will see." While sitting on the seat, I could hear a loud hiss, like air escaping, and for the life of me I swear that I saw what looked like a small hole in the floor. We were all becoming nervous about whether the plane would fall apart or get us back safely, but get us back it did. When we landed at Narita (Tokyo International Airport), we all wanted to get out and kiss the ground. And we were all thanking God, Buddha, Allah, and all other Celestial beings for their help in getting us home safely.

A couple of weeks after getting back, we visited the I's for a small home party to which we and the U's had been invited.  But no one had invited and no one missed poor Ms. S. Hopefully, she made it safely back to Japan and has led a rich and wonderful life in the intervening 30 years. Though she was the one that caused many of the problematic incidents of our trip to the Maldives, she is the one who sticks in my mind. I will never forget her, or the tales described in these Maldivian adventure blogs. 

Mitakuye oyasin. (We are all interconnected. –Lakota saying)